Shortened version originally published in the Nov. 27, 2013, issue
November and December bring with them family
hugs, a giving spirit and open ovens. The Market
Bulletin staff polled some of the Georgia Grown executive chefs on their
tips and tricks for serving unforgettable meals sure to please family, friends
and picky eaters alike. The contributing chefs are Linton Hopkins, owner of
Restaurant Eugene and Resurgens Hospitality in Atlanta; David Snyder of
Halyards, Tramici Restaurant and Halyards Catering in St. Simons; Jennifer Hill
Booker of Your Resident Gourmet, LLC, in Atlanta; and Ahmad Nourzad of Affairsto Remember Catering in Atlanta.
Q:
What’s the most useful cooking appliance in your kitchen?
BOOKER:
I love my electric
pressure cooker. I can come home from work and cook home-cooked meals in a
fraction of the time it would normally take, all while sealing in all of the
nutrients and intensifying the foods’ natural flavor.
SNYDER: I love my range and it has to be gas.
NOURZAD:
To me one of the most useful equipment in
my kitchen is my blender. I use the blender for so many different things such
as purees, sauces, soups, spice mixes, etc. I feel that people overlook and
underutilize the importance of a good blender in the kitchen.
Q:
What kitchen tool could you not live without?
HOPKINS:
Cast-iron skillet
BOOKER:
Besides my chef
knife, I have to have a rubber spatula. You would be amazed at how much food
you can save by giving that bowl, pot or pan an extra scrape with your spatula.
SNYDER:
Paper. Being organized and having
lists is a must.
NOURZAD:
Of course your hands are always the best
kitchen tool, but I feel that a good chef’s knife is what I couldn’t live
without.
Q:
How can I prepare a great holiday meal for a large crowd?
HOPKINS:
Prepare by spreading preparation out over
time to make the day-of a calm one.
BOOKER:
Plan your menu
early enough so that you can prep in phases. Check your pantry, refrigerator
and freezer for anything that you can use for your menu and put it aside for
your holiday meal. Then buy all of your non-perishables like bread crumbs, seasonings
and butter. That leaves one last trip to the store to buy perishables like
milk, fresh fruit and your turkey.
SNYDER:
Get ahead and serve foods that hold well.
NOURZAD:
Start planning early. Marinate and brine
your meats a few days in advance and cook your potatoes and veggies as far in
advance as you can so you can finish them off in the oven the day of. Then
you’re able to enjoy some time with your family. Also, knowing how much
refrigeration space you need to thaw your proteins out and keep them cold is
another biggie, so plan for it before the big day. Other than that, make sure
someone fills up your cup with your favorite beverage and ask your guests to
help you remove items from the table to the kitchen. They’ll enjoy
participating.
Q:
After Thanksgiving, there is just so much turkey! How can I make leftovers more
interesting?
HOPKINS:
I love cooking turkey cross-cultural and
find that the meat lends itself to spicy curries.
BOOKER:
Add turkey to
dishes that have another “star of the dish.” For example, add chopped turkey to
spinach and cheese strata, where the turkey is just one of the many interesting
ingredients and not the main focus. Also try mixing leftover turkey into dishes
like vegetable soup, scrambled eggs and even white chili to give it a totally
different taste.
SNYDER:
Stews, pot pies and gumbos are my favorite
way to use up leftovers. And do them with twists, like Southwestern turkey pot
pie.
NOURZAD:
Be open to different combinations and try
not to get bogged in with leftover recipes. Use your favorite recipes as a
guideline, use your imagination and get your family’s input. For example, if
you usually make beef tacos, substitute turkey. Turkey in marinara makes a
delicious swap in lasagna.
Q:
What’s your favorite spice on the rack?
HOPKINS:
Homemade creole seasoning
BOOKER:
Cumin is a
favorite, but so are Caribbean-style curry blends, and I always have red pepper
flakes on hand. I prefer big, bold tastes.
SNYDER: Cumin, hands down.
NOURZAD:
Cayenne pepper, any kind of chili and
saffron.
Q:
In your family, what’s the most popular side item for a holiday meal … and how
can I make it?
HOPKINS:
My mom’s baked wild rice. Recipe is
family secret.
BOOKER:
Their most
favorite is macaroni and cheese. I only make it twice a year and I make a
“real” mac and cheese. I start with a béchamel sauce, add lots of extra sharp
cheddar and Colby jack cheeses, a little dry mustard, salt and paprika, and
layer it over cooked pasta with more cheese. I usually use penne style pasta so
that the sauce can ooze into the pasta.
SNYDER:
Sausage stuffing or dressing was our big
favorite, [made with] crumbled Italian sausage, leeks, garlic, red peppers,
chicken stock, toasted baguettes, thyme and oregano – lots of herbs.
NOURZAD:
A good vegetable and rice casserole is
one of our favorite dishes.
Q:
What’s the craziest dish you’ve ever brought to a holiday gathering?
HOPKINS:
Maybe it wasn’t the craziest, but one
year while visiting in-laws for the holidays, I made the worst cornbread of my
life. I am still haunted by it.
BOOKER:
I'm pretty
traditional when it comes to holiday food. It would have to be the year I
brought homemade eggnog to a holiday gathering. It may seem pretty tame, but
considering the fact that I separated dozens of eggs and whipped egg whites by
hand to make it while most people just pick up of a carton of eggnog at the
market, my friends considered me crazy!
SNYDER:
I made some duck confit and goat cheese
eggrolls. Kind of outside the box.
NOURZAD:
I
usually keep my holiday dishes pretty traditional with some minor twists. It’s
just one of those times of year when folks seem to most enjoy old-school
favorites.
Q:
How can I incorporate seasonal, Georgia produce in my holiday meals?
HOPKINS:
This is the time of year for greens and
Georgia grows the best variety of collards, kale, mustard and turnip
greens. Try cooking a blend of them in the style of creamed spinach. I
think you will like it even better. See
Chef Hopkins’ creamed greens recipe on p. 7 of the print issue.
BOOKER:
Go to your
local farmer's market and seeing what's in season before planning your holiday
menu. Sweet potatoes, greens and apples are currently in season here in
Georgia. It's easy to turn those sweet potatoes into pies or muffins, cook your
choice of kale, collard or mustard greens and turn your north Georgia apples
into baked apples, cobbler and even caramel apple ice cream.
SNYDER: If possible, jar some summertime produce to surprise
everyone in the fall. Of course, all types of fall greens and lettuces
are easily found. Do a great salad.
NOURZAD:
Georgia produce is so abundant and
beautiful throughout the holiday season! I always try to look outside the box,
so if you usually make mashed potatoes for your meal and turnips and rutabagas
are available and fresh, use them in your mash. Instead of green beans, you can
always sauté fresh kale or cabbage. I always try to stick with the flavors of
the season and substitute fresh, local ingredients when possible, and that
works most of the time. Have some fun with this and try something new. You will
probably be surprised how good and easy it can be.
Q:
Share some tips on how to set a great holiday table.
HOPKINS:
Simplicity is the key. Leave room
for the food to be the star and present dishes in some of the pieces they were
cooked in: clay pots for sweet potatoes, enameled cast iron for casseroles and
a large family heirloom turkey carving tray. My wife and I also love candles
and good linen napkins.
SNYDER: I like to decorate with produce more than anything else. Cut squashes, herbs, colorful peppers and fragrant herbs. Then you get to make a great stew the next day to not waste them.
BOOKER:
I do love a
beautifully set table and I think it's easy to do by bringing the outdoors in. Decorate
the table with crystal-cut bowls full of fresh holiday fruits like oranges,
pomegranates or pears. Use pine cones to hold place-setting cards or to tie
onto cloth napkins, and trim fragrant pine tree branches or holly leaves and
berries to place on the table in brightly colored vases.
NOURZAD:
I try to let the food speak for itself
and make a beautiful, simple centerpiece. Using a runner on the table is a
great accent, but remember, I am a chef and not a decorator!
Q:
My kids don’t like ham or turkey. What are some non-traditional holiday meat
ideas I can cook that are kid-friendly?
HOPKINS:
As a boy I wasn’t the biggest fan of
roast turkey and would have preferred a cheeseburger, but I love it now and
glad that my parents didn’t cave into my likes and dislikes. It is important to
unify our families over a common shared meal, especially at Thanksgiving.
BOOKER:
A chef friend
of mine takes ordinary chicken drumsticks and turns them into “chicken lollipops”
by cutting off the joint end of the chicken leg and pushing all of the meat and
skin to the other end, creating a lollipop. Then you can bake, grill or even
fry them and serve with the rest of the trimmings from your holiday feast. It a
huge favorite of grown-ups and kids alike!
SNYDER:
Chicken is the easy meat that kids will
eat. I like to hide some veggies by using a squash puree as a sauce.
NOURZAD:
Chicken is a great way to please
children. They’re also easier and faster to roast than turkeys. Buy two if you
have a larger crowd. I’ve also made a beef roast for children and that seemed
to be popular.
