Georgia Grown Profile: Georgia Fruit & Vegetable Growers Association

Originally published in the March 19, 2014, issue

 

Group promotes networking, industry trends to membership

By Erica Lummus, spring intern

 

The Georgia Fruit & Vegetable Growers Association was established to help support Georgia’s produce industry and to increase the members that make up its network. By increasing the members who are involved, it will improve and increase the profitability of the industry. 

 

“We are an ally for the industry and have a seat at the table with decision makers in both state and federal governments,” said Director of Communications Samantha Kilgore.

 

The services that GFVGA offers are intended to grow productivities, provide educational opportunities to members, promote new markets in the industry and improve communications between GFVGA members and industry suppliers. The association makes it a priority to keep members as educated and fully informed of new information on new industry trends.

 

GFVGA provides services such as food safety consultations, legislative representation and educational workshops. It also coordinates and plans the annual Southeastern Regional Fruit & Vegetable Conference with the Georgia and South Carolina peach councils. 

 

Many of the members of GFVGA are also members of Georgia Grown and the association sees it as yet another chance for the state and the industry to work together as a team to support local, homegrown produce. The association is a proud supporter and promoter of the Georgia Grown program and is involved in many educational events and programs throughout the year at which it offers opportunities for Georgia Grown to be advertised.

 

The association is looking forward to continuing working with Georgia Grown to represent the state and hopes to continue educating people about the agriculture industry in Georgia and to help show how vital it is to the state economy’s success. 

Arty's Garden: Try Edible Landscaping for Beauty and Bounty

Originally published in the Dec. 25, 2013, issue

 

Sometimes we put plants in rigid categories. We fail to look at the beauty of fruit, vegetable and herb plants and think of flowering plants as strictly ornamental. For example, blueberries are perfect for cereal or pancakes, but we do not always notice that blueberry shrubs have attractive white flowers in spring and foliage that blazes crimson and scarlet in fall. Eggplant is versatile in the kitchen, but its lavender flowers are pretty and its fruits shine like Christmas ornaments. Yuccas have bold foliage and flowers, but their white petals taste like mild cabbage.

Oriental persimmons have glossy leaves all
summer and attractive, tasty fruit in fall.

More than ever, categories are breaking down and boundaries are being crossed. Gardeners who do not have room for an orchard or a separate herb or vegetable garden are incorporating food plants into their overall landscape designs. The concept of using food plants throughout the landscape is referred to as “edible landscaping.” Ideally, plants in the edible landscape are esthetically pleasing as well as productive. 

Examples include planting basil among flowers, rosemary as a foundation shrub, muscadines to cover an arbor or blueberries as an informal hedge. Oriental persimmon, American persimmon, feijoa, fig, sarvisberry, peach, plum and bunch grape are a few fruiting trees, shrubs and vines that may be liberated from the orchard and vineyard and utilized in the home landscape. Texas tarragon, bay, anise hyssop, thyme, oregano, basil, rosemary, chives, parsley, red mustard, kale, Swiss chard, garlic, eggplant, hot peppers and okra are a few herbs and vegetables that have ornamental qualities. Edible flowers include pansies, violas, nasturtiums, roses and yuccas. 

Even an apartment-dweller can plant herbs or leaf lettuce in bushel baskets on a sunny balcony. Homeowners with a swimming pool taking up most of the backyard can replace a lounge chair with a half-barrel containing a miniature peach. Those with sunny patios or decks can set aside space for pots of calamondin, lemon or lime. Although these citrus trees are not winter-hardy in Georgia, they are easily overwintered indoors.

Consider making your landscape an edible one. Besides having the freshest herbs, fruits and vegetables possible, you’ll have the pride that comes from growing them yourself and an increasing appreciation of the beauty that lies in all things.

                                                                                            

Arty Schronce is the Department’s resident gardening expert. He’s a lifelong gardener and a horticulture graduate of North Carolina State University who encourages everyone to discover the pleasures of plants and gardening. 

Consumer Q&A: Spring Garden

Q: Beautiful, large, yellow butterflies are all over my flowers. They are an almost solid pale yellow. They are not as large as tiger swallowtails. Do you know what they are? What can I plant to attract more?

A: They sound like cloudless sulphurs. Some entomologists call them cloudless giant sulphurs. Sulphur is an older spelling of sulfur, the mineral that's color is a perfect match to these butterflies. There are other species of sulphurs, but the cloudless sulphur is one of the largest. It is called “cloudless” because some of the other common sulphurs have gray patterns or markings on their wings. Cloudless sulphurs are more abundant in Georgia gardens in late summer and fall. They are beautiful butterflies, and are one of the few species that will migrate south for the winter.

Planting or protecting the larval plants (plants the adults lay eggs on and that the caterpillars eat) along with planting some of the nectar plants the adults feed on are the best ways to attract any butterfly.

Adult cloudless sulphurs prefer to feed on the nectar of many of the flowers that hummingbirds do. Among their favorites are pineapple sage (Salvia rutilans), firecracker vine (Manettia cordifolia), Turk’s cap mallow or wax-mallow (Malvaviscus arboreus var. drummondii), anisacanthus (Anisacanthus wrightii), Texas or tropical sage (Salvia coccinea), cardinal flower (Lobelia cardinalis), jewelweed (Impatiens capensis) and single-flowered zinnias. They also like native asters, goldenrods and blazing stars (Liatris spp.).

Caterpillars of cloudless sulphurs feed on partridge pea, clovers, Argentine senna (Cassia corymbosa), wild senna (Cassia marilandica) and other legumes, especially sennas (Cassia spp.).

Q: What are some tips for succeeding with pansies?

A: Prepare the bed beforehand by adding compost, especially if you have heavy clay or sandy soil. If planting in containers, use high-quality potting soil and the largest containers possible. Make sure the containers have a drainage hole at the bottom. Plant the pansies where they will receive at least four hours of unfiltered sunlight each day. Provide morning sun if possible. To fertilize, use a balanced fertilizer such as 10-10-10 and follow directions on the label. It is always better to under-fertilize than to use too much. Water your plants, especially those in containers, before a hard freeze. Keep the old flowers pinched off so they don’t produce seeds. This is called deadheading and encourages the production of more blooms.

Q: I had five huge holly bushes cut down as they were getting too large for me to take care of. They were 10 to 12 feet high and seven feet across. Is there a simpler way to remove the stumps than having them dug up? I cannot do it myself or get to them with a truck and a chain.

A: Digging up the stumps is the fastest and surest way to get rid of them, but it will be an arduous task because the bushes were large with a large root system. An easier, although much slower, option is to cut the bushes down as close to the ground as possible and remove every shoot as soon as it sprouts until the stump eventually dies along with the root system. You must be persistent in keeping the sprouts removed or the hollies will come back. You may want to spray or paint some brush killer on the stump and on the sprouts as they appear. Be careful not to let the herbicide get on any other plants. Follow all label instructions when using any herbicide.

Q: What are some vegetables I can grow in pots on my deck?

A: Almost any vegetable can be grown in a container if you keep it watered. Due to the limited root space, the plants are going to dry out more quickly than those planted in the ground. They will probably also need more fertilizer. The best options for growing in containers are vegetables with smaller fruits or those that have a smaller stature and don’t spread out much. Some good possibilities include leaf lettuce, radish, eggplant, garlic, carrot (round or short-root varieties), tomato (determinate varieties will stay shorter), hot and sweet peppers and bush varieties of summer squash and cucumber. Use the largest containers possible as they will provide more root-room and make the plants less vulnerable to drying out or getting blown over.

Q: Can we grow dahlias in Georgia? We had them as a child and I miss them.

 

A: Dahlias thrive where days are warm but nights are cool. That is why they are favorites farther north. However, we can grow many dahlias here in Georgia. Keys to success include selecting heat-tolerant varieties, preparing the soil with plenty of compost and mulching them well.

 

Look at the website of the Dahlia Society of Georgia at www.dahliasocietyofgeorgia.com. It is a wealth of information and includes a dahlia growing guide for Southern gardens and old newsletters with photographs that will inspire you. If possible, visit the society’s display garden at Stone Mountain State Park to see different varieties in bloom and judge how they perform.

 

Q: How much sunlight should a vegetable garden receive?

 

A: All vegetables need sunlight, generally the more, the better. The garden site should receive at least six hours of direct sunlight each day. A minimum of eight to 10 hours each day is even better.

 

Therefore, vegetables should be planted away from buildings, trees and shrubs shading the area. The roots of trees and shrubs will also compete for nutrients and water.

 

Got a question? Visit our website, write to us at 19 MLK Jr. Drive, Room 128, Atlanta, GA 30334, or email arty.schronce@agr.georgia.gov. 
 

Consumer Q&A: How Does the Garden Grow?

Q: I planted a seedling loquat several years ago. It has not produced fruit yet. Does it need another loquat to pollinate it in order to set fruit?

A: Seedling loquats may take eight to 10 years to bear fruit. Yours may simply not be old enough. Most loquats are supposed to be self-fruitful -- they don’t require a different variety or another non-identical loquat to pollenize or “pollinate” each other. However, research shows that even though considered self-pollenizing, most loquats have increased fruit set with a different loquat nearby. Some named varieties definitely need another variety nearby to act as a pollen source. However, named varieties are hard to find except from specialty nurseries. Two seedlings would suffice to pollenize each other since they are not genetically identical. Also, remember that since the tree blooms in the fall, a cold winter could also destroy developing fruit. 

Q: My peanut plants are beautiful. How long will the pegs get? My plants are knee high, and I have pegs all the way to the top. Do I force the plants closer to the ground or will the pegs get long enough to produce?

A: It is best if you can get the pegs as close to the ground as possible. Gently bend the plants down if necessary. If yours are just starting to produce pegs in the early fall, the plants won't have time to produce a crop.

Q: Should the rows in my vegetable garden run east-west or north-south to maximize sun exposure?

A: There is not universal agreement on this, but most people hold that north-south is better for a little more sun exposure. However, if your garden is on a slope, make your rows across the slope rather than up and down it in order to reduce soil erosion. That will be more important than orienting the rows to the sun. Also, do not plant tall vegetables such as sweet corn, okra and tomatoes where they will block the sunlight from shorter vegetables.

Getting maximum sunlight is just as important, or more important, for a fall vegetable garden as it is for one in the summer. However, many gardeners grow some of their fall vegetables such as leaf lettuce, radishes, turnips and various greens in patches rather than rows, and there are not many tall vegetables to worry about – the tallest being collards. 

Q: What kind of soil is best for a night-blooming cereus cactus? When is the best time to transplant one?

A: This gangly cactus from the tropics likes a potting soil that drains well and is high in organic matter. A regular potting mix should do just fine, but if you like, you can add about 10 percent sand to the mix. 

Spring and summer are the best times to transplant cactuses. You should go ahead and transplant now if your night-blooming cereus is in a container or in a soil mix that is detrimental to its health.

Make sure there is at least one drainage hole at the bottom of the pot so water does not accumulate and rot the roots. When you water the plant, do so thoroughly. Allow the top third of the soil mix to dry before watering again. The plant requires much less water in winter than in summer. It doesn’t like much fertilizer, but during summer it appreciates a monthly feeding of liquid fertilizer at half the recommended rate. Do not fertilize in winter.

Q: Is it safe to set out snapdragons in the fall? I see them for sale at nurseries. I thought they were planted in the spring.

A: You can plant snapdragons in the fall as well as in the spring. Snapdragons are quite cold hardy. If you plant in the fall you are likely to get blooms in fall and sometimes even in the warm parts of the winter, and your fall-planted snaps will have a jump on the ones you plant in the spring. For colorful beds or containers in fall, winter and spring, combine snapdragons with pansies, violas, ornamental kale and cabbage, dusty miller, dianthus and curly parsley.  

Q: What are some tips for succeeding with pansies?

A: Prepare the bed beforehand by adding compost, especially if you have heavy clay or sandy soil. If planting in containers use high-quality potting soil and the largest containers possible. Make sure the containers have a drainage hole at the bottom. Plant the pansies where they will receive at least four hours of unfiltered sunlight each day. Provide morning sun if possible. To fertilize, use a balanced fertilizer such as 10-10-10 and follow directions on the label. It is always better to under-fertilize than to use too much. Water your plants, especially those in containers, before a hard freeze. Keep the old flowers pinched off so they don’t produce seeds. This is called deadheading and encourages the production of more blooms. 

Q: What are some vegetables I can grow in pots on my deck?

A: Almost any vegetable can be grown in a container if you keep it watered. Due to the limited root space, the plants are going to dry out more quickly than those planted in the ground. They will probably also need more fertilizer. The best options for growing in containers are vegetables with smaller fruits or those that have a smaller stature and don’t spread out much. Some good possibilities include leaf lettuce, radish, eggplant, garlic, carrot (round or short-root varieties), tomato (determinate varieties will stay shorter), hot and sweet peppers and bush varieties of summer squash and cucumber. Use the largest containers possible as they will provide more root-room and make the plants less vulnerable to drying out or getting blown over.

Q: I want to grow sprouts for salads. Can you offer advice?

A: Perhaps the easiest and most reliable method for raising edible sprouts is with a wide-mouth jar and screen of some type. Screw-on screen lids are readily available at health food stores and other companies. You can make your own screen with cheesecloth and a rubber band, but it is messier and ultimately more expensive. A wide-mouth quart canning jar is a good choice. A quart mayonnaise jar also works well.

To start the sprouting process, place two to three tablespoons of small seeds, such as alfalfa, or one-fourth to one-half cup of large seeds, such as beans, per quart into a glass jar. It is best to start with a smaller amount of seeds to see how the process goes. Fill the jar two-thirds full of lukewarm water, place the screen over the mouth of the jar and soak seeds for eight to 12 hours or overnight.

After soaking, drain the seeds and lay the jar on its side. During the next three to five days, rinse the seeds with lukewarm water once every morning and evening. Drain off all excess water after each rinsing. Keep the jar at temperatures between 65 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Some people like blanched sprouts that develop in darkness or indirect light and are not exposed to any sunlight. Placing the seed-sprouting jar on top of the kitchen counter and covering it with a small towel will provide an excellent environment during the sprouting process. To create green sprouts, place the jar of sprouted seeds in a sunny window for a few hours. If in the sun too long, they can become tough and bitter.

The eating size of the sprouts will vary with the type of seed and with your individual preferences, generally one-quarter inch to two inches long. Once the sprouts have reached the desired size, place them in a bowl of water. The seed sprouts will sink to the bottom and the loose seed hulls will float to the top. Skim the hulls off. Remove the sprouts and allow them to drain. You can use them immediately or store them in closed glass or plastic containers in the refrigerator for later use.

Some of the seeds you can use for sprouting are alfalfa, broccoli, buckwheat, cabbage, clover, fenugreek, mustard, radish, sesame, sunflower, millet, chickpeas, lentils, green pea, wheat, rye, triticale, onion and various beans including adzuki bean, soybean, kidney bean and mung bean. Seeds for sprouting may be purchased from mail-order seed companies, health food stores and some garden centers. Do not use seeds that have been treated with fungicides or other pesticides.

Because seeds have different sizes and growing habits, experiment to find the best way to handle each kind and to suit your tastes and needs. If you become really involved in sprouting, there are devices for quantity production.

Sprouts need not be limited to salads but can be used in sandwiches, soups, stews, omelets, bread (mixed into dough) and stir-fry dishes.

Got a question? Visit our website, write to us at 19 MLK Jr. Drive, Room 128, Atlanta, GA 30334, or email arty.schronce@agr.georgia.gov.

Consumer Q&A: Produce Questions

Q: What causes catfaced tomatoes?

A: Catfaced tomatoes are malformed with leathery scars, bulges or cavities at the blossom end of the fruit. These cavities can extend deep into the flesh. The condition gets its name because the fruit can look like a cat's face.

The causes of catface are not definitely known. Cold temperatures during blooming or fruit set  may be responsible. Catfacing is more common on the fruit formed first on  large-fruited tomato varieties. Some varieties are particularly prone to catface and should be avoided if this has been a problem in the past. The condition does not affect the flavor of the tomato.

Q: What causes my cucumbers to be sheepnosed and shaped like gourds?

A: Improper pollination due to lack of insects or adverse weather conditions can cause misshapen cucumbers and melons. Lots of rain and cool temperatures can hamper the activity of pollinating insects. High temperatures can also kill pollen. Lack of moisture during development can also misshape fruit.

If you are applying any insecticides, make sure you are applying them properly and not killing the bees and other pollinating insects. We need these insect allies for all our flowering crops!

Q: What batter is best for frying squash? Can pattypan squash be fried like yellow squash?

A: Pattypan or scalloped squash can be sliced and fried. There is no best batter or best way to fry squash. They are easy to fry and the results are almost always tasty.

To coat the squash before frying, some people slice it and dredge it in flour, corn meal or a mixture of both. Some dip the slices in buttermilk or sweet milk before dredging. Some make a batter of flour with milk, buttermilk or beer and coat the slices with it. They may then dredge the coated slices with flour or corn meal. Some mix an egg diluted with two tablespoons of water, coat the slices and dredge in flour, corn meal or fine bread crumbs. Some use rice flour instead of wheat flour.

After squash slices are coated, heat a half-inch of cooking oil in a heavy skillet. When the oil is hot, start dropping the coated squash slices into the oil, one at a time so they don't stick together. Remove them from the oil when they are golden brown and let them drain onto paper towels. Serve them warm with salt and pepper.

Got a question? Visit our website, write to us at 19 MLK Jr. Drive, Room 128, Atlanta, GA 30334, or email arty.schronce@agr.georgia.gov.