Cooking Up a Delicious Holiday: Q&A with Georgia Grown Executive Chefs

Shortened version originally published in the Nov. 27, 2013, issue

 

November and December bring with them family hugs, a giving spirit and open ovens. The Market Bulletin staff polled some of the Georgia Grown executive chefs on their tips and tricks for serving unforgettable meals sure to please family, friends and picky eaters alike. The contributing chefs are Linton Hopkins, owner of Restaurant Eugene and Resurgens Hospitality in Atlanta; David Snyder of Halyards, Tramici Restaurant and Halyards Catering in St. Simons; Jennifer Hill Booker of Your Resident Gourmet, LLC, in Atlanta; and Ahmad Nourzad of Affairsto Remember Catering in Atlanta.

 

Q: What’s the most useful cooking appliance in your kitchen?

 

BOOKER: I love my electric pressure cooker. I can come home from work and cook home-cooked meals in a fraction of the time it would normally take, all while sealing in all of the nutrients and intensifying the foods’ natural flavor.

 

SNYDER: I love my range and it has to be gas.

 

NOURZAD: To me one of the most useful equipment in my kitchen is my blender. I use the blender for so many different things such as purees, sauces, soups, spice mixes, etc. I feel that people overlook and underutilize the importance of a good blender in the kitchen.

 

Q: What kitchen tool could you not live without?

 

HOPKINS: Cast-iron skillet

 

BOOKER: Besides my chef knife, I have to have a rubber spatula. You would be amazed at how much food you can save by giving that bowl, pot or pan an extra scrape with your spatula.

 

SNYDER: Paper. Being organized and having lists is a must.

 

NOURZAD: Of course your hands are always the best kitchen tool, but I feel that a good chef’s knife is what I couldn’t live without.

 

Q: How can I prepare a great holiday meal for a large crowd?

 

HOPKINS: Prepare by spreading preparation out over time to make the day-of a calm one.

 

BOOKER: Plan your menu early enough so that you can prep in phases. Check your pantry, refrigerator and freezer for anything that you can use for your menu and put it aside for your holiday meal. Then buy all of your non-perishables like bread crumbs, seasonings and butter. That leaves one last trip to the store to buy perishables like milk, fresh fruit and your turkey.

 

SNYDER: Get ahead and serve foods that hold well.

 

NOURZAD: Start planning early. Marinate and brine your meats a few days in advance and cook your potatoes and veggies as far in advance as you can so you can finish them off in the oven the day of. Then you’re able to enjoy some time with your family. Also, knowing how much refrigeration space you need to thaw your proteins out and keep them cold is another biggie, so plan for it before the big day. Other than that, make sure someone fills up your cup with your favorite beverage and ask your guests to help you remove items from the table to the kitchen. They’ll enjoy participating.

 

Q: After Thanksgiving, there is just so much turkey! How can I make leftovers more interesting?

 

HOPKINS: I love cooking turkey cross-cultural and find that the meat lends itself to spicy curries.

 

BOOKER: Add turkey to dishes that have another “star of the dish.” For example, add chopped turkey to spinach and cheese strata, where the turkey is just one of the many interesting ingredients and not the main focus. Also try mixing leftover turkey into dishes like vegetable soup, scrambled eggs and even white chili to give it a totally different taste.

 

SNYDER: Stews, pot pies and gumbos are my favorite way to use up leftovers. And do them with twists, like Southwestern turkey pot pie.

 

NOURZAD: Be open to different combinations and try not to get bogged in with leftover recipes. Use your favorite recipes as a guideline, use your imagination and get your family’s input. For example, if you usually make beef tacos, substitute turkey. Turkey in marinara makes a delicious swap in lasagna.

 

Q: What’s your favorite spice on the rack?

 

HOPKINS: Homemade creole seasoning

 

BOOKER: Cumin is a favorite, but so are Caribbean-style curry blends, and I always have red pepper flakes on hand. I prefer big, bold tastes.

 

SNYDER: Cumin, hands down.

 

NOURZAD: Cayenne pepper, any kind of chili and saffron.

 

Q: In your family, what’s the most popular side item for a holiday meal … and how can I make it?

 

HOPKINS: My mom’s baked wild rice. Recipe is family secret.

BOOKER: Their most favorite is macaroni and cheese. I only make it twice a year and I make a “real” mac and cheese. I start with a béchamel sauce, add lots of extra sharp cheddar and Colby jack cheeses, a little dry mustard, salt and paprika, and layer it over cooked pasta with more cheese. I usually use penne style pasta so that the sauce can ooze into the pasta.

 

SNYDER: Sausage stuffing or dressing was our big favorite, [made with] crumbled Italian sausage, leeks, garlic, red peppers, chicken stock, toasted baguettes, thyme and oregano – lots of herbs.

 

NOURZAD: A good vegetable and rice casserole is one of our favorite dishes.

 

Q: What’s the craziest dish you’ve ever brought to a holiday gathering?

 

HOPKINS: Maybe it wasn’t the craziest, but one year while visiting in-laws for the holidays, I made the worst cornbread of my life.  I am still haunted by it.

BOOKER: I'm pretty traditional when it comes to holiday food. It would have to be the year I brought homemade eggnog to a holiday gathering. It may seem pretty tame, but considering the fact that I separated dozens of eggs and whipped egg whites by hand to make it while most people just pick up of a carton of eggnog at the market, my friends considered me crazy!

 

SNYDER: I made some duck confit and goat cheese eggrolls. Kind of outside the box.

 

NOURZAD: I usually keep my holiday dishes pretty traditional with some minor twists. It’s just one of those times of year when folks seem to most enjoy old-school favorites.

 

Q: How can I incorporate seasonal, Georgia produce in my holiday meals?

 

HOPKINS: This is the time of year for greens and Georgia grows the best variety of collards, kale, mustard and turnip greens. Try cooking a blend of them in the style of creamed spinach. I think you will like it even better. See Chef Hopkins’ creamed greens recipe on p. 7 of the print issue.

 

BOOKER: Go to your local farmer's market and seeing what's in season before planning your holiday menu. Sweet potatoes, greens and apples are currently in season here in Georgia. It's easy to turn those sweet potatoes into pies or muffins, cook your choice of kale, collard or mustard greens and turn your north Georgia apples into baked apples, cobbler and even caramel apple ice cream.

 

SNYDER: If possible, jar some summertime produce to surprise everyone in the fall.  Of course, all types of fall greens and lettuces are easily found. Do a great salad.

 

NOURZAD: Georgia produce is so abundant and beautiful throughout the holiday season! I always try to look outside the box, so if you usually make mashed potatoes for your meal and turnips and rutabagas are available and fresh, use them in your mash. Instead of green beans, you can always sauté fresh kale or cabbage. I always try to stick with the flavors of the season and substitute fresh, local ingredients when possible, and that works most of the time. Have some fun with this and try something new. You will probably be surprised how good and easy it can be.

 

Q: Share some tips on how to set a great holiday table.

 

HOPKINS: Simplicity is the key. Leave room for the food to be the star and present dishes in some of the pieces they were cooked in: clay pots for sweet potatoes, enameled cast iron for casseroles and a large family heirloom turkey carving tray. My wife and I also love candles and good linen napkins.

 

SNYDER: I like to decorate with produce more than anything else. Cut squashes, herbs, colorful peppers and fragrant herbs. Then you get to make a great stew the next day to not waste them.

 

BOOKER: I do love a beautifully set table and I think it's easy to do by bringing the outdoors in. Decorate the table with crystal-cut bowls full of fresh holiday fruits like oranges, pomegranates or pears. Use pine cones to hold place-setting cards or to tie onto cloth napkins, and trim fragrant pine tree branches or holly leaves and berries to place on the table in brightly colored vases.

 

NOURZAD: I try to let the food speak for itself and make a beautiful, simple centerpiece. Using a runner on the table is a great accent, but remember, I am a chef and not a decorator!

 

Q: My kids don’t like ham or turkey. What are some non-traditional holiday meat ideas I can cook that are kid-friendly?

 

HOPKINS: As a boy I wasn’t the biggest fan of roast turkey and would have preferred a cheeseburger, but I love it now and glad that my parents didn’t cave into my likes and dislikes. It is important to unify our families over a common shared meal, especially at Thanksgiving. 

 

BOOKER: A chef friend of mine takes ordinary chicken drumsticks and turns them into “chicken lollipops” by cutting off the joint end of the chicken leg and pushing all of the meat and skin to the other end, creating a lollipop. Then you can bake, grill or even fry them and serve with the rest of the trimmings from your holiday feast. It a huge favorite of grown-ups and kids alike!

 

SNYDER: Chicken is the easy meat that kids will eat. I like to hide some veggies by using a squash puree as a sauce.

 

NOURZAD: Chicken is a great way to please children. They’re also easier and faster to roast than turkeys. Buy two if you have a larger crowd. I’ve also made a beef roast for children and that seemed to be popular.