Originally published in the Feb. 19, 2014, issue
By Dallas Duncan
It’s common for people to find
themselves “in a pickle.” But when that pickle includes too many fresh
vegetables than they know what to do with, pickling can come in handy.
It can also come in handy when the
pickle is having not too many vegetables, but too many containers, as was the
case with Nick Melvin.
“My wife and I got married about two
years ago and had an excess of Mason jars after our wedding, because nobody
took home their gifts they were supposed to,” said Melvin, the self-described
“pickle guy” for Decatur, Ga.-based Doux South.
His wife wanted to learn how to pickle,
and shortly thereafter Melvin joined with his father in law to create Doux
South, which specializes in creating pickles that capture Southern fare and
food heritage. The company name comes from Melvin’s hometown in Louisiana being
due South of Chicago, where his father in law lives.
“We’ve paired with five or six farmers
all over the Southeast. The majority are in Georgia, a couple guys in South
Carolina and one or two guys in Florida,” Melvin said.
The most popular varieties include Angry
Cukes, which are spicy dill pickled cucumbers, and their Italian-inspired
tomatoes pickled with red wine, basil and garlic.
For Angie Tillman, owner of Phickles, a
pickle company from Athens, Ga., pickling turned from Christmas gifts to a
full-time job after celebrity chef Hugh Acheson told her to put a label on her
jars. Phickles’ varieties include pickled beans, carrots and jalapenos, with
plans to expand to sauces, relishes and even pickled fruits.
“It’s been really fun because during the
year, the different seasons produce different things, and I get to play
around,” Tillman said. “When in season, everything comes from around here.”
Melvin said the inspiration for pickle
flavors comes from the main ingredients themselves.
“We want to showcase the beautiful
flavor of a turnip or the sweetness of a tomato or the earthiness of black-eyed
peas,” he said. “You can pickle anything, you just have to be smart about it.”
That means thinking hard about
pre-cooking ingredients before brining them – such as the black-eyed peas,
which can be undercooked rocks or overcooked mush, not ideal for the pickled
salad Doux South makes – and playing with seasonings and vinegars to find the
ideal flavor combinations.
Both Tillman and Melvin advise pickle
novices to check out their local farmers markets to see what produce is in
abundance.
“Buy in season. Pickling is only as good
as the product going into it,” Melvin said. “We don’t cook the vegetables … I
don’t like putting any more heat in the vegetables than I have to. For me, by
putting them there raw and then adding hot brine and processing, we’ve
introduced the minimal amount of heat to the vegetables, therefore really
keeping the integrity of the vegetable itself.”
HOW TO:
Pickle your own fresh produce at home
Editor’s
Note: These pickling tips and instructions come from Doux South and UGA Cooperative Extension.
1. Choose a jar. Make sure there is
enough room for the product being pickled and space for the brine to flow
around the produce.
2. Select produce and spices for the
brine. UGA Extension recommends pickling produce within 24 hours after picking.
Cucumbers should be unwaxed pickling varieties. It is recommended to use a
specially formulated pickling salt, cider or white vinegar, white sugar, soft
water and whole (not powdered) spices. Firming agents such as food-grade lime
may be added for crisp pickles, if desired.
3. Sanitize empty jars and produce. Heat
a hot water bath to 110 degrees and deposit the empty jars, uncapped, in for 12
minutes. Tilt the jars sideways to ensure they fill with water. Produce should
be thoroughly cleaned and allowed to drain. Remove stems and leaves, and slice
if desired.
4. Create the pickle brine. Heat the
brine – a combination of spices, salts and vinegar – in a stainless steel,
aluminum or glass saucepan. Add produce and other aromatics to the jar and pour
heated brine on top, leaving a half-inch headspace. Cap the jars.
5. “Cook” the pickles. Heat the water
bath back to 110 degrees and process the capped jars for about 10 minutes.
Ensure there is enough water to cover the jars by 1.5 inches. When the lid
locks, meaning the button at the top is flat, the vacuum is complete and the
product is food safe.
6. Flip the jars upside down after
they’re done processing. This accentuates the vacuum seal. Once cooled, labels
can be added, if desired, and then pickles are ready for transportation to
local farmers markets and the next Georgia Grown Farmer Showcase! Check with
the Department’s Food Safety Division for full rules and regulations on selling
pickles at these and other outlets.
Tune back in later this week for more information on getting licensed to pickle, courtesy of the Department's Food Safety Division.
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